Modern cosmetology are widely use different types of acids. These are often used in salons include the composition of the professional cosmetics, including creams, lotions and tonics for home use.
Acids are natural components of skin and are involved in the processes of cellular metabolism and exchange of gases. Reducing the concentration of autologous acid with age disrupts the normal cell activity and is one of the factors of aging. Professional treatments and home care make up for their losses and support the necessary concentration of the desired products. In this case, often go on the use of alpha or beta hydroacids.
A group of carboxylic acids includes a wide range of, which is not very acidic substance, the total content of which in its composition carboxyl group. Due to the different properties and characteristics, many of them have been successfully used in aesthetic medicine and cosmetic products.
| Types of acid | Example | Properties | Use |
| Fat | |||
| Saturated | Myristic Palmitinovaja Stearic | Emulsifying agents, stabilizers | On the basis of these acids creates a lot of varieties of soap. Acids and their esters are used in cosmetics as stabilizers for emulsions. |
| Unsaturated | Linoleic Linolenic Oleic | To compensate for the lack of epidermal lidido and strengthening of the epidermal barrier. Creates a protective film that prevents the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Are antioxidants. | Included in the night and day creams, cleaning milk for skin cleansing. |
| Fruit | |||
| Alpha-hydroacids(AHA) | Glycolic Dairy Amber Lipoic Vigilantem Apple Lemon Pyruvic, etc | Elimination of hyperkeratosis, to create conditions for the improvement of the skin's moisture. Stimulate the production of ceramides, collagen fibers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. | At concentrations up to 10% are used in cosmetic products: cream, lotion, tonic , including home care. In high concentrations are only used in the salon conditions for exfoliations' and superficial peels. |
| Beta hydroacids(COLOUR-acid) | Salicylic | Exfoliates the stratum corneum, reduces sebum production, removes impurities from the pores. Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory effect. | Uses for the peels: I as an exfoliant or as a basis for challenging the medio peels - retinoic or Gessner. Included in creams, lotions, tonics for oily and problematic skin. |
| Polyhydroxylated (RNA) | Gluconic acid | It has a high molecular weight, which is a more gentle effect, which does not cause irritation. Prevents aging, stimulates the production of elastin, increases skin protective properties. Blocks up to 50 percent of UV radiation. | Included in the anti-aging program for skin care with high-sensitivity. |
| Trichloroacetic acid(TCA) | It penetrates into the skin deeper as fruit acids. Principle of operation - clotting proteins. | For medio from the TCA peel. | |
Fruit AHA-acids, water and BHA is fat-soluble. This fundamental difference provides for the use of acids in cosmetics. The best known BHA acid is salicylic - penetrate the lipid barrier deep within the pores, so that can affect the sebaceous glands and reduction of their excessive activities. Its main purpose is to treat acne and blackheads, rejuvenate oily and problematic skin. AHA, that are more suitable for the care of the skin, in photodamage, age spots, old age hyperkeratosis and dryness. Polyacids RNA were determined with sensitive skin, stress, low local immunity.
Glycolic acid in cosmetics is the most effective and therefore the most researched of all AHA-acids. Considerable popularity, which it has acquired after it has proven its ability to increase the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen in the dermis. An added benefit of glycolic acid is a relatively cheap production from sugar cane. Dermatologists Medical University, Wakayama (Japan) have proven the effectiveness of the high concentration of these substances in the treatment of severe acne. Glycolic acid in cosmetics also successfully used to improve the moisture levels in all layers of the skin.
E. I. hernández, in his book "Cosmetic peeling" refers to the number of credible studies in cosmetology, who spoke about the use of glycolic acid depending on the concentration:
On the second place on the popularity and knowledge in cosmetology is lactic acid. Also, as glycol, that is, a substance which has a good exfoliating effect and helps to eliminate the signs of Chrono - and photoaging. The effectiveness of lactic acid a little bit less, but the risk of irritation from its use below.
Lactic acid is considered to be more physiological for skin. Its molecule one atom more molecules of glycolic acid, so they are slower and more evenly penetrate the epidermis and destroy the intercellular connections. Create a lactic acid environment prevents the growth of pathogenic bacteria, increases the lipid coat and strengthens the skin immunity. These qualities along with less aggression, justifying the use of lactic acid in cosmetics-for patients with sensitive, problematic skin. Its concentration in the media of the home care, which ranges from 3.5 to 10 percent.
Amber acid in cosmetics is called life-giving elixir for aging skin. This brightens up the excess pigment, nourishes and smoothes the skin. Succinic acid - is a strong catalyst for the synthesis of adenosine triphosphate (ATP), which plays an important role in cellular metabolism. Because of these properties of amber acid in cosmetics, it is included in many anti-aging programs, home care for aging skin. Is the source of vitality for the hair.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics is not exfoliant. It is recognized as a powerful antioxidant, inhibits the activity of a broad spectrum of free radicals, which are important reasons for skin ageing, formation of wrinkles and pigmentations. The high efficiency of lipoic acid due to its ability to dissolve in water and lipid environment, which sets it apart from other antioxidants, especially vitamins C and E. at the same time it does not block their functioning and strengthens.
Lipoic acid (vitamin N) impede the process of glycation, in which the connection of the collagen fibers with the molecules of glucose in the blood and reduces the activity of the elastin. She repeatedly accelerates the metabolism of glucose and slows down the deformation of the skin. With early treatment from a beautician and regular use of funds with the lipoic acid is observed, the reversibility of the process of glycation and reduces the signs of aging.
Lipoic acid in cosmetics also successfully used in the treatment of scars, acne, post-rosacea acne and the consequences. It normalizes the activity of sebaceous glands, reduces the severity of the pores and skin and renews cell membranes and protects DNA from the negative influence of the external environment.
A powerful exfoliation - the main advantage of salicylic acid in cosmetics. This is the most common BHA acids, which can dissolving the connection between the Cornea cells, even in the depths of the pores, i.e. to destroy blackheads. In parallel, than a derivative of aspirin reduces the inflammation, reduce infectious processes and accelerates healing. The combination of the antibacterial properties and the effect of deep cleaning, the use of salicylic acid in cosmetics to work with oily skin. The concentration of salicylic acid in creams, tonics for home use, shall not exceed two percent.
The first acid in the salon cosmetology are used in the form of peels.
1. Exfoliation and superficial peels AHA-acid
Connection hyperkeratosis with a lot of skin diseases have been proven in the 80-ies of the last century the first scientific research, AHA. Removing old stratum corneum acids are considered the most secure procedure. Choosing the right concentration of alpha-hydroacids do not cause burns on the skin and gently removes desmosomes - strong intercellular connections the dead skin cells.
Was later proven AHA-acids penetrate deeper than the stratum corneum and stimulate processes in the skin. However, due to the disintegration of tight couplings arise microcirculatory channel, through which the deeper layers of the skin easier to penetrate other active substances used in the final stage of the process.
The Peeling effect and the depth of penetration of the acid depends on its concentration and pH:
Small acid concentration allowed for home use, medium and high, are treated as drugs, which has been called the only doctor-cosmetologist of the appropriate indications and are used for professional treatments at a clinic or salon.
The positive changes from the peeling AHA acids do not happen overnight. For a noticeable effect requires 6-10 treatments every 7-14 days. However, as a result of the course, the skin succeeds in fully updated without difficult recovery, scrub and serious post-gluma risk.
2. Peels BHA
Peels with salicylic acid is often used to treat acne, scars and acne scars, leveling of the skin relief. This acid included in the compositions of the powerful anti-aging peels, in some cases, used as a source for retinoic. Salicylic peels - a real salvation for people with 4 and 5 phototypes of the skin. Works as a mild exfoliant, it does not cause post-gluma complications in dark-skinned people.
3. Medical peels acid
The mechanism of action of hydroacids do not allow them to penetrate into the middle layer of the epidermis, even when it is concentration. So, for deeper skin renewal using other types of acids. Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) coagulates proteins that cause controlled chemical burns. In the recovery of active regeneration and proliferation of cells both in the epidermis and the dermis. Pure retinoic acid - a derivative of vitamin A - in the process of peeling is involved with the fibroblasts, increases their activity and so increases the synthesis of elastin, collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Low concentration of acids, which are included in the box, professional esthetic care, and cosmetics products for the home. Regular use of these tools is more soft, but stable result.
Fatty acids due to nutritional properties, which are most often the basis for the heavy cream. Amino acids are the constituents of protein - important for the production of the active ingredients in the dermal matrix and is suitable for all skin types. Mild forms of retinoid acid-containing creams and serums for rejuvenation, treatment of acne, rosacea and dermatitis.
Hydroxy acids, which are useful at any age and are involved in the preparation of creams, tonics and serums. Salicylic acid is often found in cosmetics for teenagers, oily and problematic skin.
Regular exfoliation after 40 - a necessary condition for old age care. A prerequisite of the use of drugs with hydroacids - protection against solar radiation, so many of them contain UV filters.
The funds also with a low content of acid is recommended for use under medical supervision. Them easier from the beautician, who is a program, the aesthetic correction. Many professional medications can be used in the salon and at home, so that you can control the flow of acid into the skin easier.